How to Make Sleeves Bigger: an Easy Full Bicep Adjustment

The sleeves of my Vikisews Nunzia dress were tight on my arms, so I made them bigger using the method from Vikisews' own instructions. It works when your upper arm is 1 to 3 cm bigger than the pattern.

Why adjust the sleeve pattern

Tight sleeves are a common problem, especially with jersey patterns: the Vikisews Nunzia sleeve has negative ease, 1 cm smaller than the arm. A small full bicep adjustment on the pattern fixes it before you cut, with only a few millimetres added to the bodice.

How I made the sleeves bigger

• Measure the sleeve pattern and your upper arm, near the armpit. The sleeve measured 30 cm and my arm 31.5 cm, so I needed 1.5 cm more.
• Split the extra in two: spread the sleeve 7.5 mm at a vertical line from the centre notch, and mark the new centre notch.
• Add the other half at the underarm seam: 3.5 mm on each side of the sleeve.
• Add the same 3.5 mm to the side seams of the front and back bodice, and make the armhole a little deeper, so the sleeve still fits.
• I ended the new line at the elbow and added a little flare below it. Make a muslin first.
• The Vikisews instructions for this are in the document of a free pattern, the Vikisews Milana dress (page 28).

What you need for a full bicep adjustment

• Vikisews Nunzia pattern the sleeve I adjusted
• Tape measure for your upper arm Find it ↗